Reuse and circularity in textiles
Global reuse is the circular textile economy in action. Already, the textile value chain from raw materials through production to garment sales is global. Changing it into a circular chain must also be global.
Between 2000 and 2015, clothing production has approximately doubled, driven by a growing middle-class population across the globe and increased per capita sales in developed economies. Large amounts of non-renewable resources are extracted to produce clothes that are often used only a few times – we use each garment 36% less than a decade ago. Over two-thirds of textiles go to landfills at the end of their use, and less than 1% is recycled into new clothing. The throwaway culture driven by ultra-fast fashion is cause for serious environmental, health, social, and economic concerns and calls for action.
The voices calling for changes in this vital production and consumption area towards a circular model are getting louder. The action called for is bold: to minimise the environmental impact dramatically and make the best possible use of already-produced clothing.
The global reuse sector already plays a significant role in achieving this. It also has a notable socio-economic impact, stimulating local economies, creating millions of jobs, and making good-quality clothing accessible to low-income groups. The global reuse sector is ready, able, and willing to contribute to changing to a more circular textile ecosystem.
Global annual textile consumption per person has increased twofold, rising from 7 kg to 13 kg [between 2000 and 2015]. This growth has driven overall global textile consumption to nearly 100 million tonnes annually.
- K. Shirvanimoghaddam and B. Motamed, Death by waste: Fashion and textile circular economy case, 2020
What we do
The Humana People to People network has collected, sorted, and sold used clothes for over forty years.
It starts with collecting clothes people no longer want but deem usable for others. With separate collection for reusable clothes, followed by professional sorting, our network achieves reuse percentages of 75 or higher. Each item is carefully evaluated for quality and its opportune market. The clothes are sold for reuse in the Global North or South, depending on specific market criteria.
Shops, sorting centres and wholesale outlets are respectful and well-organised, ensuring the dignity of staff and customers, be it in the Global North or South. People feel dignity and pride when they can access good quality, affordable clothing and choose the style they like. This supports the fundamental human right to clothing for millions of households in low-income countries.
Jobs and income created in the reuse business are fulfilling for the thousands of people directly employed and many millions more across the Global South who rely on selling clothes to the next customers.
Wholesale customers in the Global South get support to build their business skills and knowledge. Thereby, the reuse business helps to develop the local labour market. Finally, surplus derived from the reuse business funds 23% of the social development work operated in 16 countries by Humana People to People members.
Case Study
Humana People to People Baltic, Lithuania
Humana People to People Baltic in Lithuania operates one of the largest sorting centres for second-hand clothes and shoes in Europe, employing over 500 people. Skilled sorters sort 160 tonnes of clothes per day into over 300 categories to maximise the potential of each clothing item with an understanding of the global reuse market and local demand in importing countries. 75% of second-hand items collected are reusable, 20% are recyclable, and only a small fraction, around 5%, is used for waste-to-energy or other purposes.
Supporting the UN Sustainable Development Goals
IMPACT:
SDG1: End poverty in all its forms everywhere
How do we impact this
The contributions of the Humana People to People network in the second-hand clothing industry far exceed the direct impact of sustaining and transforming lives to ensure decency and dignity. Humana People to People recognises the strategic importance of used clothing in sustaining the livelihoods of millions living in some of the world’s most economically challenged regions.
The funds generated from second-hand clothing projects contribute to poverty reduction by providing flexible funding for development programmes, driven by the revenues from people donating and purchasing second-hand clothes. In 2024, Humana People to People’s second-hand clothing operation provided US$28.3 million in development funding to support countries in the Global South in achieving the United Nations Sustainable Development Goal 1.
In Mozambique, the second-hand clothes trade accounts for at least 65% of the money circulating in the markets, with food a close second at 25-30%.
US$28.4
million raised
for Development projects
SDG8: Promote sustained, inclusive and sustainable economic growth, full and productive employment and decent work for all
How do we impact this
The second-hand clothes sector is more than just a market for used clothes; it’s vital for employment in the circular economy. The Humana People to People network creates more than 8,000 formal jobs directly with its members and 116,200 informal jobs in logistics, sorting and sales throughout Africa and Central America. Both formal and informal employment sustain economic development.
In Angola, Malawi, Mozambique, and several other countries, Humana People to People members and associates support second-hand clothes traders in developing their business knowledge and skills to increase their surplus. With that, they support their families and improve their quality of life by accessing education and healthcare. The sale of second-hand clothes is a long-term need that is highly beneficial and transformative to local economies.
In Guinea-Bissau, Angola, Zambia and Mozambique, each tonne of imported second-hand clothes sustains an estimated 6.5 jobs.
8,000
formal jobs
116,200
informal jobs
in logistics, sorting and sales throughout Africa and Central America
6.5
jobs per tonne
in Guinea-Bissau, Angola, Zambia and Mozambique
SDG12: Ensuring sustainable consumption and production patterns
How do we impact this
Collecting, sorting and reselling used clothes: Over 50% of discarded garments in Europe end up in landfills or incinerators, and this figure rises to 85% in the USA. In 2024, Humana People to People members contributed to sustainability by repurposing 139,000 tonnes of used clothing in the USA and Europe.
Reducing the production of new textiles: By selling second-hand clothes for reuse, fewer natural resources are used to produce new textiles. A new garment has nearly 70 times the environmental impact of a reused one.
Legislation and trade arrangements support: Through sector organisations and in many other ways, we take initiatives to increase policymakers’ awareness of the social, economic, and environmental benefits of reusing textiles. Global coordination is needed. Otherwise, current efforts are set to become a zero-sum game.
Increased consumer consciousness and sustainable buying choices: Increased awareness of the environmental harm from fast fashion and positive experiences with the reuse of second-hand clothes are driving this change.
Tonnes (%) that end up in landfills or incinerators
50%
Europe
85%
US
SDG13: Take urgent action to combat Climate Change and its impacts
How do we impact this
Less CO2 is emitted during the production and disposal of textiles - Doubling the number of times a garment is worn reduces CO2 emissions by 44% compared to buying a new one. Humana People to People calculates that for each tonne of clothes we collect, we save 6.1 tonnes of carbon emissions. In 2024, Humana People to People’s second-hand clothes operation saved 849,000 tonnes of CO2.
Humana People to People supports all projects aimed at addressing Climate Change with funds generated from the sale of second-hand clothes, promoting resilience and adaptation to its impacts.
In 2024, Humana People to People’s second-hand clothes operation saved
849,000
tonnes of CO2
Each tonne of clothes saves
6.1
of carbon emissions